by Ben Fuchs Rocky Mountain Natural Labs Boulder, Colorado
SKIN STRUCTURE:
Dynamic and Mosaic – Constant and differentiated renewal Protection - Temp. Regulation - Sensory Reception - Sexual Attraction - Excretion - Involved in bone strength.
Largest organ - between 6 and 7 pounds - 1/25th to 1/8th inch thick - Epidermis 17-500 microns!. TURNOVER- 10 billion cells a day!
EACH SQUARE INCH CONTAINS:
100 oil glands - 15 feet blood vessels - 65 hairs - 234 feet of nerves - 650 sweat glands,
9.5 million cells - 1300 nerve endings - 20,000 sensory cells - 250 sense organs
EPIDERMIS:
Basal-keratinocytes (90-95% of epidermal cells); Spiny-attachments; Granular-lamellar bodies (lipids); S.C.- hard dried cells, corneocytes.
Cells migrate upward from basal going from live and plump to dead and flat (28 days)
DERMIS:
Support structure nerves - blood - organs support - Intermediates INSIDE and OUTSIDE Papillary-Ground Substance (GAG, MPS) and Reticular– tight fibers (collagen, elastin ). GAG’S = HYALURONIC ACID, CHONDROITAN, HEPARIN
SUBCUTANEOUS:
connective tissue and fatty insulation.
SKIN MAINTAINED BY:
Keratinocytes – moves from basal to sc
Lipids – phospholipids - glycolipds - cholesterol -maintain barrier and lipophillicity
Melanocyte - produces granules of color ranging from brown-black (eumelanin) to yellow-red (phaeomelanin) to red-yellow (tricochrome).
protective function, - free radical scavenging
Immune cells -langerhans - macrophage -lymphocytes
Fibroblast- produces components in dermal amorphous mesh called "ground substance"
COLLAGEN – most abundant body protein (1/3 body weight)
ELASTIN – 1-2% of skin, elastic nature
GAG’s - moisture binding, NMF involvement
AGING SKIN:
Reduced dermal/epidermal adhesion results in diminished nutrient transfer.
Reduced epidermal turnover.
Reduced melanocytes, immune cells.
Dermal drying.
Elastin changes in thickness, flexibility.
Enzyme decline results in decreases in collagen, ground substance.
Decreases in blood vessels, sebum, sweat.
NUTRITION BASICS:
MACRONUTRITION
PROTEIN - Whey is the best, Soy, Egg, Bean should be included too. Maybe some fish and dairy. Meat only if you have to. SKIN - comprises structural components of skin; healthy skin requires enzyme (protein) activation; new cell growth requires protein ; immunity
FATS - Mostly unsaturated, Raw flaxseed and sunflower/safflower (ideally cold-pressed) DAILY, EFA’s! SKIN- keeps skin moist and soft, maintains barrier function, involved in immunity and inflammation and vitamin production (via cholesterol)
CARBO’S - Complex i.e. grains starch veggies. SKIN – involved in N.M.F. lactic acid, GAG’s have carbohydrate-like chemical nature, involved in (skin) cell energy production.
FIBER - Raw veggies best. SKIN – helps prevent skin toxicity
WATER- Lots of Distilled Water SKIN – prevents dehydration of skin, maintains electrolyte balance, prevents skin toxicity
VITAMINS:
MICRONUTRITION
Fat Soluble D – regulation of calcium SKIN – involved in cell growth
K – clotting factors SKIN – blood vessel integrity, bruising
E - mixed Tocopherol best, detoxifier SKIN - healing, anti-oxidant
A – modulates cell growth SKIN – controls hyperkeratinosis which can cause acne, folliculitis, fibroblast stimulation (induction of ground substance)
Water Soluble C - very important, needs regular supplementation. DRINK IT! SKIN - anti-oxidant, photo-protective, collagen synthesis
B-COMPLEX - very important, needs regular - supplementation - DRINK IT! SKIN – energy regulation, liver/adrenal support, new cell growth
MINERALS:
MINERALS - Broad spectrum colloidal mineral supplement
Additional: Zinc/Copper - Calcium/Magnesium - Potassium SKIN – detoxification - wound healing - co-function in cell growth biochemistry
CLEAN - TONE - MOISTURIZE - TREAT:
Clean: Soap-free, pH balanced or stimulatory
Low detergency, AHA’s work great here because it’s washed off you can use more intense formulations.
Tone: On damp skin apply treatment,
AHA’s perfect there
Alcohol and oil-free
Vitamin C -water soluble here
Moisturize: Oil and water don’t mix. Be Careful of preservatives, fragrance 100% active is nice, wax is for candles (cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol etc.)
TREAT: USE VITAMINS!
Especially anti-oxidants (C, E, A) , K, GLA, GAG, NATURAL MOISTURE FACTOR Immune stimulators.
PRODUCT PHILOSOPHY
BIOGENIC
NON-COMEDOGENIC
USE OILS SPARINGLY – Jojoba is non-comedogenic, similar to human sebum, cleansers only
EASY ON BOTANICALS they’re medicine- simples
DON’T OVERFORMULATE – synergistic toxicity
THE SKIN IS AN ORGAN FEED IT
BEAUTY FROM THE INSIDE OUT- THE PYRAMID
SIMULTANEOUS STIMULATION (AHA AND BHA’s) WITH NOURISHMENT (VITS, EFAs)
WATCH OUT FOR WAXES AND EMULSIFYNG AGENTS
STICK WITH HIGH ACTIVES, SMALL DOSAGE
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS:
Acid material found in fruits and foods
Differing size and chemistry accounts for differing effects.
Speed cellular transit and turnover, unglue dead skin (corneocytes)
May also increase growth of dermal support structure and GAGs.
Anti-bacterial properties too.
Chemical structure similar to Vitamin C (anti-oxidant properties?)
Non-toxic
High concentrations result in epidermolysis leading to skin rejuvenation
pH and pKa factors as important as concentration.
Benefits: softening and diminution of fine lines and wrinkles
skin retexturization
improve skin tone and clarity
evening of pigment
acne control
improved skin radiance
improved skin elasticity
improvements in photoagied, acne scars etc.
Possible problems slight and include redness, mild breakouts, allergic reactions, dryness.
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